The best sailing trip of my life (up to now) Part 3

 

I like to photograph birds of all kinds. While I am not a fan of seagulls, they are impressive flyers and make for good models.

There is just something about the elegance of their wings, their colour, how they contrast with the sky, and how they make it all look so effortless.

Our trusty Rocna anchor on Coconinho, never let us down. Here it is deeply stuck into the sand of Elafonissos bay

The moment the chain starts to drag along the sandy bottom, plaice show up to eat whatever tasty little morsels are hiding there.

So the earth is not flat. It is concave!

And more seagulls!

And some photos of my beautiful crewmate. One day I was teaching her how to steer under sail...

...and the next she was steering standing up, foot on the tiller...

Just arrived into Koroni, this is the colour of the water in the harbour!

Checking up on pilotage and navigation...and looking stylish at the same time!

Elafonissos, just arrived!

Porto Yerakas, checking out doorways!

Porto Yerakas looking out onto the lagoon

Porto Yerakas kafeneion

And a well earned beer with smiles all around after final arrival in Koilada!

So this was the end to my best sailing trip so far. We left out places due to time constraints, like Pylos, Methoni, Kythira, Gerolimenas, Monemvasia, Astros Kynourias. So there are still places to explore. We have to go there again. Fancy joining us? We are looking to organise a two way trip to Athens and back. We can find boats, of various kinds to charter, ranging from modern monohulls to wooden classics to catamarans.

Drop us a note on papapete67@gmail.com

The best sailing trip of my life (up to now!) part 2

 After our stop in Elafonissos we headed over to Neapoli, a small town on the last "finger" of the Pelloponese. The tip of this "finger" pointing towards Crete, is the infamous Cape Maleas or Kavo Mallias. Notorious for its storms and big seas, this is where the weather systems from Western Greece and the Ionian meet the weather systems of the Aegean, resulting often in big and confused seas, and where many ships have been wrecked. 

Essentially this was the main reason behind the creation of the Corinth Canal, to avoid having to sail round this part. 

We spent the night in Neapoli, and refuelled in preparation for the recommended early morning crossing of the cape.

The ferry that runs to Kythira from Neapoli

Alongside for the night. We had to move back a bit to make space for the Port Police boat. At some point the young officer came over, and we thought we were in for a boat papers check, but he came to apologise for running his engines and making noise, as he was doing an oil change and service. It was a very hot day and we were on deck. He  asked why we don't turn on the airconditioning! We explained we did not have any, and he proposed we fit one soon. He obviously did not realise we had no 220V supply or room for one... I could only stand up straight by the hatch! The Contessa 32 may be an amazing yacht, but aircon was not one of the design priorities, and rightly so!

Kavo Mallias in the distance as the sun comes up, looking quite calm

And the infamous cape itself. There is a monastery there and if you pass close enough the monk comes out and waves!

Heading North again, after passing the cape, time constraints meant we had to forgo a visit to Monemvasia, a historic and beautiful castle city on a rock. We were heading instead for another place, I had never even heard of before. Thankfully my many fellow skipper friends had all recommended one place or another to stop, so our next overnight, on Theo Boukas's advice was Porto Yerakas. Can't be seen from offshore but it was just round this corner...

A long fjord like bay, with a small dock at the beginning for larger boats and more space along the quay for smaller boats.

A small village, quite "Aegean" in its style. White washed small houses and bougainvillea everywhere. The sound of cicadas permeates the air, essentially the sound of summer...

Just three tavernas, and some fishing boats. Further round the corner and a short pleasant walk the "fjord" opens out onto a large and shallow lagoon with plenty of wildlife.

I love to photograph old fishing boats and boat names. In further blog posts I will showcase many more, but here is an example of what the fishing boat of a proud Olympiakos FC fan would look like.

Wooden jettys waiting for their boats to return for the summer, like swallows nests perched along taverna rafters.

A miniature chapel in the Aegean style, and a shallow keel Moody in the background.

As the evening sun sets, and the lights come on in the village, we get ready for a stroll down the quay to pick a taverna for our evening meal.

The next day another early morning start. We found it better to go for early mornings as it got so hot during the day. This was another bay recommended by my skipper friend George Magoulas. We call it Kohili bay, as it was simply strewn with seashells. We arrived there alone, and jumped naked into the sea to swim ashore. 

We felt like Adam and Eve, finally arrived to our Eden. It was hard to leave.

At the bottom of a steep ravine, Kohili Bay awaits.

Finally arrived in sweltering Koilada, our final stop, to see what must be one of the neatest sidewalk benches ever. Makes sense, the place is known for its ship's carpenters and boatyards.

A lovely private kaiki with a friendly dog, standing guard in the heat.

...and a rather sad looking and obviously derelict ex 3/4 tonner? About 40 foot in length and with the most horrible looking superstructure.

The next day Coconinho was lifted out and we grabbed a Taxi to go to Corinth and catch the bus to Corfu. Nine days at sea, with our bow constantly heading into new waters. Part 3 coming soon to cover some bits I missed out and show off some wildlife photos taken along the way.

The best sailing trip of my life (up to now!) part 1

I'd spent all my life sailing in the Ionian and the Adriatic. A lifelong dream of mine had been to sail round the bottom of the Pelloponese. Then in 2021 disaster struck, there was a major landslide and rockfall in the Corinth Canal and it closed indefinitely. That year all yachts travelling to and from the Ionian to the Aegean had to go the "long way round". It so happened I made that trip 3 times in 2021!

The first and best of my "circumnavigations" of the South Pelloponese was made when I was called upon to deliver a beautiful Contessa 32 to Koilada boatyard.

 Coconinho was the boat, and Sofia my partner was my crew. We had time so made the trip in a number of legs, taking us around unexplored by me waters, to some of the most beautiful and off the beaten track track parts of Greece.

Here are some photos from that trip.

Coconinho getting readied for launch

Launched and ready, we get here fuelled up and shipshape for the trip.

Coconinho setting off into the June haze...

Sofia on the look out as we head into Lefkas Canal

...and towards Pera Pighadi bay in Ithaka.

Pera Pighadi anchorage

A little private bay to enjoy lunch and a swim.

Kyparissia Sunset. We were welcomed into the bay by turtles

Alongside at Kyparissia. We needed water and managed to find the telephone number of the local who holds the keys to the single tap. He very kindly drove us into town for supplies, and treated us to some icecubes courtesy of his friends at the taverna nearby. He is the local Audi car mechanic and a boat owner himself, so he is keen on helping other boaty people too!

A derelict fishing boat rusting away on the quay. Turtles kept popping out of the water to take a look at us all the while we were there.

Sailing round Sapienza Island at a brisk 7 knots, the Contessa showing us what she is made of.

Towards Koroni, and past the lighthouse towards Porto Kayo.

At anchor in Porto Kayo next to a converted lifeboat

 

 

We swam out and enjoyed lunch at a table whose legs sat in the water. Back on the boat we watched a beautiful 50 foot wooden ketch glide in and anchor. Her silouette was unmistakable. "Alexandra I" returning from the Spetses Classic boat race. I called to Niko a old sailing mate of mine, on the bow who peered at me, and only recognised me when they came a bit closer. He could not believe they were meeting friends in this beautiful and so out of the way spot. The next morning as the sun rose we glided out of the bay. Next stop? Elafonissos!

The colour of the water said "get the Go Pro out!"

Sofia the underwater model

Coconinho in Elafnissos bay

The water in Elafonissos says "dive into me"!

 It is not only the colour of the water here but also the sheer expanse of it.

Part 2 follows tomorrow! We sail past the notorious Kavo Mallias, to discover more beautiful places